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A falafel sandwich at Amsterdam Falafel and Kabob in Dundee is filled with two falafel patties, green on the inside with herbs. It's topped with a cool slaw of minced garlic, purple cabbage, carrots, chickpeas, cucumber and tomato. Vegans are among those who are fond of the meatless dish.(JEFF BEIERMANN/THE WORLD-HERALD. Photos in story b)


FOOD PROWL

Omaha's best falafel
By Sarah Baker Hansen
WORLD-HERALD STAFF WRITER


To read more from Sarah Baker Hansen, go to her blog, OMAvore.

Watch our latest Food Prowl video.

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This is the fourth installment of Food Prowl, a yearlong series of stories in which we, along with a few special guest tasters, examine what the city's restaurants have to offer and choose our favorite foods in a dozen categories.

For month four of Food Prowl, we're looking at falafel, a Mediterranean delight. To read Sarah's full story from Friday's paper, click here.

To read the first three Food Prowl stories, visit omaha.com/foodprowl.

In our humble opinion, the best falafel in town is at Amsterdam Falafel and Kabob.

The tasters:


Isa Chandra Moskowitz
Blogger at the Post Punk Kitchen, www.theppk.com., and author of seven cookbooks, the most recent being “Vegan Pie in the Sky.” Isa moved to Omaha 18 months ago.



John McDevitt

Founder of veganomaha.com. John is an Omaha native.







A falafel ‘kolache'? Yum


Nebraskans expect stuffed sandwiches to taste like a Runza.

But at Caffeine Dreams, in midtown, you can get a stuffed sandwich filled with any variety of stuff, including falafel.
Locally owned Culprit bakery makes both vegan and nonvegan stuffed sandwiches for the coffee shop at 45th and Farnam Streets.

The sandwich we sampled had a soft, slightly sweet bun and a petite falafel cake inside on top of some tomato and baba ganoush, a Middle Eastern puree of eggplant, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic.

I liked the falafel “kolache,” as Culprit calls them, enough that I've already recommended it to lots of people.
John McDevitt, one of my two Food Prowl tasters, said he liked the sandwich — Caffeine Dreams has been a past venue for his Vegan Omaha meet-ups — but his favorite is one stuffed with buffalo seitan and vegan feta cheese.

Caffeine Dreams updates its daily selection of vegan and nonvegan kolaches daily on its Facebook page, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Caffeine-Dreams/82693257932.

To learn more about Culprit, visit www.culpritcafe.com.

Amsterdam Falafel and Kabob

620 N. 50th St.

402-504-3223

www.eatafk.com

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 a.m., Sunday (March-November) noon to 7 p.m.

One summer at camp, Isa Chandra Moskowitz dressed up like a falafel sandwich.

A kid-sized, homemade cardboard pita hugged her five-year-old body. She had paper lettuce and tomato on her head and cardboard falafel cakes on her hands.

“Falafel, I like to eat it on a Saturday,” she and the other campers sang as part of a performance. “Falafel, the taste is natural.”

After Isa told me this story, at our last falafel lunch – at Amsterdam Falafel and Kabob – for my April Food Prowl story, I stopped scribbling down notes.

I could not have picked a better Prowl partner.

Because if it isn't already clear, Isa — an Omaha transplant, a Brooklyn, N.Y., native and a celebrated vegan chef and cookbook author — knows falafel.

So does her boyfriend, John McDevitt, who founded Vegan Omaha and has been eating falafel for years.

The three of us had eaten six other falafel sandwiches by the time we got to Amsterdam.

I've written about Amsterdam's falafel before, and the ones we ate last week were no different: a thick round of crispy, chewy bread filled with two large falafels, green on the inside with herbs.

Amsterdam's sauces and condiments are different from the other places we visited. A cool slaw of minced garlic, bright purple cabbage, carrots, whole chickpeas, cucumber and tomato sits on top of the sandwich and below are three sauces: spicy, green herb and creamy garlic.

When she first moved to Omaha, Isa said, she didn't like Amsterdam's bread, made at South Omaha's International Bakery and traditionally used for Mexican Torta sandwiches.

But it grew on her.

“I started to like it because it is really good,” she said.

Isa wavered between two falafel sandwiches when it came time to choose the winner.

Amsterdam

“I know what I want to choose,” she said.

But she hesitated. So did John.

I made my choice for the best falafel, and it wasn't Amsterdam. (More on my choice later.)

But Isa loves Amsterdam's green, herby falafel cakes. Its spicy sauce. Its garlicky hummus and fresh condiments.

And she said even though she knows a lot of people reading this story won't want Amsterdam to win — the three of us all know that some in the city think the “hipsters” who run it don't know a thing about making falafel — she thinks it's the best.

“I asked people about their favorite falafel, and some of them said they liked Victor's or other places,” she said. “But then I'd ask them when they were last there, and they'd say two years ago. Then I'd ask them when they'd last been to Amsterdam, and they'd say ‘last week.'”

John voted for Amsterdam, too, and this marks the first Food Prowl where my tasters have outvoted me.

“If I had to choose a falafel to represent my city, and a place where I'd take visitors,” Isa said, “I'd choose Amsterdam.”

THE OTHER CONTENDERS:

El Basha

I chose El Basha as my favorite falafel in Omaha.

When our colorful baskets of falafel wrap arrived, Isa immediately noted that the wrap included a pickle spear. It reminded her of the Israeli falafel she'd eaten in New York growing up, though the falafels at El Basha are Lebanese. The wraps were full of pleasantly herby falafel with a crisp exterior, a rich tahini-based sauce and lots of bright vegetables. Isa and I both tasted flat leaf parsley, mint, cumin and coriander. The falafel wasn't dry or too crumbly.

El Basha

That pickle, those herbs and the amazing tahini sauce pushed El Basha's wrap ahead in the standings for me.

“This is a falafel you would crave,” Isa said, and I agreed. I'm still craving one now.

During our El Basha lunch, I learned more about Isa and John.

Isa told me she became a vegan as a teenager in the 1990s. She created an online cooking show called The Post Punk Kitchen in 2003 with her writing partner, Terry Hope Romero. Two years later, in 2005, she wrote her first cookbook. Since then, she's become one of the most popular self-trained vegan cookbook writers in the country. She's authored seven cookbooks and is working on her eighth. She also has more than 30,000 Facebook followers, more than 18,000 Twitter followers and writes a popular blog, www.theppk.com.

John became a vegetarian around 2001 and a vegan in 2003. He started Vegan Omaha as a casual gathering in 2008. The restaurant guide on his site, veganomaha.com, has grown to be the definitive resource on eating vegan in Omaha. He also writes a blog called “The Laziest Vegans in the World” where he reviews vegan packaged food like meatless beef jerky and buffalo wings and dairy-free ice cream and ranch dressing.

Isa and John first met at a vegan meetup for one of Isa's cookbooks. They met a second time and became a couple when they were both on a vegan cruise — yes, you read that right — and though the cruise food wasn't very good (“There was seaweed everywhere,” Isa remembers), things worked out between them.

Isa moved to John's hometown in October 2010.

El Basha Mediterranean Grill

7503 Pacific St.

402-934-6266

Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.

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Mediterranean Café and Wine Bar

I met Isa and John for our first lunch at Mediterranean Cafe and Wine Bar in West Omaha, a place neither one of us had heard of.

Mediterranean Café and Wine Bar

I also got my first lesson in ordering at a restaurant if you are a vegan. Isa asked our waitress which items on the menu included dairy and what the restaurant might be able to substitute, a ritual that happened during almost all of our lunches.

Our falafel wraps arrived: mine in a pale white herb wrap and Isa and John's in a bright red sun-dried tomato wrap. Mine came with a side of hummus topped with a dollop of yogurt-based Tzatziki and the vegan version with just hummus.

It's too bad that those sauces weren't inside the wrap, because it was dry. The falafel patties were mashed into pieces and the chunks were too grainy. The hummus didn't have enough garlic or lemon for Isa's taste.

“If I were making this wrap,” Isa said, “I'd add some hummus, some olive oil, some of this red sauce (that came with a side order of grape leaves), the falafel, but not mushed up, and the tomatoes and lettuce inside the wrap. Then it'd be better. It'd be pretty good.”

Mediterranean Café and Wine Bar

1712 N. 120th St.

402-493-3080

Hours: Monday-Friday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday open at 5 p.m. for dinner.

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Lot 2

We met the next day in Benson. Lot 2, the neighborhood's newest hot spot, has falafel on its succinct menu.

The waiter there answered all of Isa's questions pleasantly — though he did offer her, at first, a grilled cheese as a vegan option before she reminded him that being vegan means she doesn't eat dairy.

Lot 2

The chef changed the slaw served with the falafels to be dairy-free for Isa and John's plate.

The falafel at Lot 2 is what we thought it would be: upscale.

Four tight balls of fried, partially ground chunky chickpeas surrounded a small pile of slaw with cabbage, yogurt dressing, pickled onion, cilantro, mint and a dollop of jalapeno chutney.

“They look sort of like chickpea hush puppies,” John said.

The falafel didn't have the traditional Mediterranean spices, though it did taste fresh. We all thought it a bit dry, but Isa found a solution: dipping it in the housemade ketchup “even though that's bad of me,” she said.We all liked it, but decided it deviated too much from “regular” falafel to be the best.

Lot 2 Restaurant and Wine Bar

6207 Maple St.

402-504-4200

Hours: Monday-Thursday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to midnight, Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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Victor's Mediterranean

Victor's

We had lunch at Victor's Mediterranean, where we found a greasier falafel than we wanted. We also didn't care for the $9.50 price tag for two medium-sized falafel patties and a pita without any sides. Isa asked for a dollop of hummus on her sandwich, but the owner said no, and instead made us pay an additional $7 for a plate of hummus that she and John used as a dip.

Victor's Mediterranean Cuisine

4007 Farnam St.

402-341-7347

Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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McFoster's Natural Kind Cafe

McFoster's

At McFoster's, the city's best known vegetarian and vegan spot, we found falafel with structural problems: After a few bites, John simply dumped the contents of the too-flimsy wheat pita onto his plate and ate them as a falafel salad. I will, though, recommend McFoster's vegan cucumber ranch dressing. The stuff is delicious.

McFoster's Natural Kind Cafe

302 S. 38th St.

402-345-7477

www.mcfosters.com

Hours: open every day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.




Contact the writer: Sarah Baker Hansen

sarah.bakerhansen@owh.com    |   402-444-1069    |  

Sarah writes restaurant reviews and food stories for the World-Herald.

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